Vygis and Paul in India

Dharamsala (McLeod Ganj)

2006-12-12T11:21:00.000+05:00

Dharamsala o tiksliau miestukas pavadinimu McLeod Ganj, esantis uz 10 km nuo Dharamsalos pirmiausia asocijuojasi su Dalai Lama ir Tibeto vyriausybe tremtyje. Si puiki bet siuo metu laiku salta vieta kalnuose kurioje galima sutikti Tiobeto budistu vienuoliu, is viso pasaulio suvaziavusiu turistu, beveik vietiniu hipiu ir elgetu is visos Indijos.
Pats miestukas tai kokios 10 gatviu, kuriose vyksta guvi prekyba suvenyrais, knygomis Tibeto ir Budizmo tematika, vietiniais Tibeto skanestais - koldunais mommo. Bendras jausmas puikus. Vietos vienuoliai ir turistai labai draugiskai nusiteike taciau mieste tvyro sioks toks liudesio jausmas nes cia gyvena tremtiniai, kuriu salis uzimta ir apie tai visi kalba. Dar miestuke yra Dalai Lamos rezidencija, vyriausybes tremtyje ofisas, kelios sventyklos ir vienuolynas, perkeltas cia is Tibeto. Prie Dalai Lamos namu kabo skelbimas kad del sveikatos problemu jis sumazino audienciju skaiciu todel uzsirasyti reikia bent jau pries menesi. Nakti,einant gatve ir svieciant menuliui debesis galima pasiekti ranka. Cia buvau tik 24 val. todel spejau tik trumpai pajusti vietos dvasia. Viename is vietiniu video teatru, kuri sudaro 20 minkstu autobuso kedziu ir didelis plokscias TV pirma vakara ziurejau puiku filma Samsara kuris labai estetiskai pateikia ivada i budizma ir pagrindini konflikta tarp atsiskyrelisko vienuolio gyvenimo siekiant nusvitimo ir tokiu zemisku troskimu kaip seima.
Kitas dvi naktis gyvensiu traukiniuose kol pasieksiu sventa miesta Varanasi.

Vygis

Amritsar

2006-12-11T19:13:00.000+05:00

Kelione prasidejo vakariniu skrydziu i Deli ir 6 valandu laukimu New Delhi gelezinkelio stotyje Sleeper Class laukimo saleje. Zmones miega ant grindu o tarp ju smirineja ziurkes. Zavu. Tikriausiai issirinkau leciausia traukini visoje Indijoje, nes kelione, kuri trunka 6 val., uzeme visas 14 val. Aisku jokio sildymo. Taciau daug puikiu vaizdu vagone. Trauknys stoja visose stotelese taigi ilipa ir islipa daug zmoniu kurie vaziuoja trumpus atstumus. Kiekviena karta prabudes matydavau naujus kaimynus. Daug ju buvo piligrimai, kurie drasiai galetu papuosti bet kuri Haloween arba NM kaukiu baliu.
Atvaziuoju. Mieste lyja. Temperatura kokie +12 C. Trumpos derybos su riksa ir pasiekiu viesbuti. Jau vakaras, todel skubu pamatyti pagrindini miesto stebukla - Auksine sventykla. Amritsar yra Sikhu sostine esanti karingame Punjabe regione kuris tai pat garseja savo virtuve. Sikhai - karinga tauta - daug ju tarnauja karininkais Indijos kariuomeneje. Zinomiausias Indijos Sikhas - dabartinis Indijos premjeras devintis zydra galvos raisti. Apskritai Sikhai megsta issiskirti ir kiekvienas Sikhas turi tureti penkis simbolius. Vienas ju - galvos raistis. Vyrai ir moterys nekerpa plauku (plaukuotos kojos huh...). Vyrai nuo mazumes savo kasas slepia po galvos raisciais. Antras - kardas - apginti silpna. Nors daugeliui Sikhu kardas liko tik simbolis devimas kaip zenkliukas prie galvos raiscio, as maciau daug piligrimu, kurie i reikala ziuri daug rimciau. Traukinyje man pozavo vienas toks turinti 1.2m karda ir dar 0.5m durkla. Apie kitus simbolius skaityti cia.
Sikhu religija yra Hinduizmo ir Islamo misinys. Pati auksine sventykla - nedidelis aukso lakstais dengtas pastatas esantis Nektaro tvenkinio viduryje apsuptas siena. Norint aplankyti reikia nusiimti batus, uzsideti galvos raisti (mano apsukta beisbolo kepure buvo OK, nes paslepe pakausi) ir pirmyn. Vaiksciojimas po sventykla basomis esant gal +10 C ir lyjant ikvepia. Bunant sventykloje apskritai apima didelis pagarbos jausmas matant kaip nuosirdziai zmones eina ir meldziasi. Tikriausiai atviriausia religija su kuria susipazinau iki siol. Beje kiekviena Sikhu sventykla turi nemokamus nakvynes namus ir valgykla visiems. Daug turistu cia nemokamai gyvena iki 3 dienu. Maistas, beje, auksciausios kokybes. As geriau arbata ir galiu pasakyti, kad ji skanesne negu daugelyje vietu. Daug seimu ateina dienos metu ir padeda ruosti valgi - pvz. lupa ir pjausto cesnakus. Per diena, jei tiketi Lonely Planet, svetykloje pavalgo 30.000 zmoniu.
Hinduistai cia yra mazuma ir, nors jie turi savo "auksine sventykla" mieste, ispudis visai ne toks.
Antra lankytina vieta Amritsare yra Indijos Pakistano sienos kirtimo punktas, kur kiekviena diena, leidziantis saulei, abiejose pusese vyksta veliavos nuleidimo ceremojima. Vaizdas toks. Abiejose pusese yra tribunos, kurias kasdiena uzpildo atvaziave ziopliai. Veliavos nuleidimo metu vyksta nedidelis parada kurio metu abi puses sinchroniskai skanduoja Indija/Pakistanas jega! ir pan. Nezinau ar tai taiki agresijos israiska tarp saliu, kuriu santykiai nepasikeite nuo 1948m. ar tikro draugiskumo zenklas.
Mano zinutes is kelioniu bus siek tiek "sausos" nes neturiu galimybes nukrauti nuotraukas taigi pridetu nuoroda i viena is svetimu foto

Vygis

Indija uz 35 Lt per diena

2006-12-11T18:25:00.000+05:00

Sveikuciai,

Jau geros 3 savaites, kaip blogas buvo mires. Egzaminai, prieskelioniniai rupesciai etc. Kadangi mano draugas Paul jau tikriausiai i si bloga neparasys ir nera susirupines jo promotinimu tai persijungiu i kalba, kuri yra arciausiai Sanskrito :)
Jau savaite, kaip keliauju po Siaures Indija susiplanaves isleisti po 35 Lt per diena. Ar LT dar galima pavalgyti padorius pietus uz tokia suma?
Teisingumo delei pasakysiu tai si suma neapima bilietu keliauti didelius atstumus. Jie (aciu liberalizuotam dangui ir galimybei keliauti ivariomis gelezinkelio klasemis) kainavo apie 500 Lt. Taigi ka galima nuveikti uz 35 Lt per diena.
Viesbutis - 20 Lt (Rs 300). Uz sia suma gausite dvivieti kambari (poros sutaupo!!!) su kartais svariomis paklodemis, staliuku, kede, asmeniniu dusu ir praustuvu. Jei pasiseks kambaryje bus karstas vanduo (bent jau is ryto). Sildymo (keliaujantiems Indijos siaureje) - niekada. Miegmaisis rekomenduojamas.
Maistas. Toks gurmanas kaip as jam isleidzia daug pinigu. Valgyti paruostas darzoves pigiau. Bet kuriuo atveju Indija yra geriausia vieta vegetariniam maistui (jei liezuvis ir skrandis gali pakelti prieskonius). Bendrai maistui iseina apie 13 LT (Rs 200).
Na ir likutis riksoms, elgetoms, vandeniui ir pan.
Aisku tokia suma neapima silko, kilimu, hindu religines atributikos, sariu ir visokiu panasiu suvenyru, kurie puikiai kaupia dulkes namie, pirkimo. Kitas "postas" apie Amritsara - Sikhu miesta.

Vygis

Yellow-Blue-Pink: Jaisalmer

2006-11-18T10:35:00.000+05:00

Yellow-Pink-Blue resembling famous movie trilogy by Kieslowski and describes three distinct Rajasthani cities which each has a dominant color. This is probably the shortest of my post or rather the invitation to explore the yellow color of Jaisalmer.

PS The shadow of your obedient servant is in the middle

Liberalised skies

2006-11-01T23:44:00.000+05:00

Many peole argue that the best way to experience this big country is to conquer vast distance in the general train compartment (either seating or sleeper depending on the time of the day). This is the place where one can observe how the majority of Indians travel. However, for students like, who are busy with classes and submission great help comes from liberalised aviation sector. With airlines popping like mushrooms one can get a good deal from Delhi to Mumbai for, say Rs 1500 (25 Eur) one way. Of course general rules like advance booking apply. I now some of you intend to visit India shortly therefore provide here the list of the most popular airlines. Some of them do not cater to foreign nationals, some do not accept foreign business cards but studying their offers can give one a good overview on locations covered and prices. My sure bet so far was Spicejet, which I has no problems to purchase online so far. So plan your trips, save your money and get ready for the Indian experience.
http://www.spicejet.com/
http://www.airdeccan.net/
http://www.jetairways.com/
http://www.airindia.com/
http://www.indian-airlines.nic.in/
http://www.jagsonairline.com/
http://www.airsahara.net/
http://www.flykingfisher.com/
http://www.goair.in/
If you still intend to travel by train (which I highly recommend too) I suggest to read excellent info on the railway system and then try to get used to the official website of the Indian Railways. You will this info when buying tickets in the stations anyways.

Selling to the Indian consumer

2006-11-01T13:03:00.000+05:00

Ever wondered how local companies and foreign multinationals sell to the Indian consumer. Except of raising middle class which accounts for 200 million or so people, the great majority of Indians still earn basic salaries. Many of them are daily workers meaning that every morning they do not know what will be the catch at the end of the day. As a result they will buy only at the end of the day and only what they need for that day. Additionally, only about 5% of the trade in India is organized meaning the country is sprawling with small retail shops and street vendors.
How Coca cola or Procter & Gamble can adopt their global strategies to sell in a vast yet often poor market in the country which will host the biggest world population b y 2020? One obvious answer is to produce locally. It is correct but it not enough. The true answer is small packages and intensive distribution. While Europe markets “get more for less” economy packs Indian trade sells cigarettes individually even if package of 10 is available. I fell sick and visited a doctor who prescribed me a medicine to be taken for 3 days only. Guess what I got from the pharmacist? Exactly the amount of tables I needed for 3 days. They even cut a strip of 8 for me.
Apparently this requires quite different business thinking. Whoever is interested to explore a topic more should read a book “Fortune at the Bottom of the Pyramid, Eradicating Poverty Though Profits” by CK. Prahalad. I also attach the link to the particular book’s chapter talking about the needs and approaches to these markets.

Kausani: Kingdom of spiders and friendly people

2006-10-28T22:15:00.000+05:00

Given my current study workload I should be writing to you about branding of Indian iced tea in Germany (the topic of the paper I am sleeping with for the last 4 days). But, since I mentioned branding, I have to live to my brand promise i.e. updating my friend on my experiences in India. Therefore this post is about Kausani in Uttaranchal region, which I visited almost a month ago.
Kausani was the final destination of our five day trip to Uttaranchal. Referred to as Switzerland of India the place is the closest spot where one can enjoy views over the Himalayan mountains both right before the sunset and right after the sunrise. But our small international team has another reason to visit Kausani too. The reason is half a day trekking from Kausani to Baijinath. The whole trip is about 10 km descent. It is not mentioned in the Lonely Planet guide which gives us the good feeling of being alone all the way.
5 am in the morning and our alarm clock wakes us up to catch the first rays of the sun to enjoy the Himalayan views. We go to the hotel terrace along with the whole Kausani village and, for an hour, enjoy the sunrise taking pictures and drinking tea. However the biggest “job of the day” is still ahead. We pack and start descending to Baijinath. We only know the final destination and have no map. The only piece of knowledge we have is that there is a trail parallel to the road. Luckily we pass several villages and ask for the way along. After about half an hour we reach the first village and the wonders start. People leave their houses, everybody says namaste folding their palms the Indian way, little kids give us flowers, women give us fruits. Never in my life had I seen so friendly people. We continue our trip and rich the river valley where we encounter shepherds’ kids. The fun starts. They keep asking us to take pictures posing in front of us in the most professional way. After the picture is taken everyone rushes to see it on the camera screen. This is the biggest entertainment for them. In general, if you travel in India you will often come across poor Indian kinds which will be greeting you and asking to take a picture. Make sure to show it to them afterwards. Also make sure you hold your camera firm not because they might steal it but because you will be attacked by at least 5-10 of them all at once. I personally prefer to have candies or small change in my pocket I can give if the case comes. But be aware. Once you give to one you have to give to everyone else too.
Five hours are over. We arrive at Baijinath where people are no less friendly then in the mountains. Quick lunch, visit to the 10th century temple (official purpose of the trek), polite refuse to spend the night in the house of the generous local patron of students and we head back to Nainital to take the night bus to Delhi.
I invite you to mentally make the trek my seeing the pictures I took along the way.

Sudden discoveries

2006-10-24T18:47:00.000+05:00

Have you ever found yourself in a location you like so much but never planed to visit nor were aware of its existence just a couple of hours ago. Well. Let me introduce Raniketh to you. We visited it during our early October trip to the Uttaranchal region in the North of India. One hour by plan to Delhi, seven hours by train to Kadhodam, one night at the foothills, breakfast at 6 am and we are ready to board the jeep to hit the road for our final destination Kausani (which I will cover in my next post). We stand at the road side, jeeps come, drivers shout the destination, jeeps get full and they depart. No schedules, no receipts. That’s the way to travel in the mountains. After five minutes of waiting we learn that Kausani is not reachable directly thus we either have to change at either Alamora or Raniketh. Friendly appearance of the driver and smaller charge make it easy to decide and we embark on 3 hour journey. I found myself crammed in the back with 5 people occupying 4 seats. The jeep ascends bendy roads moving at 20 km an hour, driver continuously switches his attention between the brakes and the signal while I regret I was born or, at least, had breakfast that morning. Three hours of torture and we get off at Raniketh just to get the next jeep. However the day is young so we decide to explore the main street, get some water and depart in ten minutes. What one thought to be a short introduction turns out to be half a day stay enjoying mountain views, meeting people, playing with children, taking photos and just wandering around.
Ranikteh is a place where the density of population gets back to the standards we are used to. People are not spoiled by tourists and no one pays attention to the three wandering backpackers. As banks are closed we approach local jeweler to change some rupees into smaller notes. The result of this exercise is that we have the a new friend we spent one hour sipping tea and contemplating over the similarities of world religions with. The rest you will find in the photos by visiting this link

Shubh Deepavali (Happy Diwali)!

2006-10-21T22:38:00.000+05:00

Diwali preparations

2006-10-21T00:33:00.000+05:00

Diwali – the Hindu festival of lights – is here at last. Considered to be the most important yearly festival Diwali celebrates the return of Lord Rama after killing the Demon the festival symbolizes the victory of good over evil. Although the temperatures are around +35C these days it feels like Christmas. Sound of burning firecrackers adds to the general traffic noise, entire city is lit up, people buy sweets and greet each other. Our dorm prepares to celebrate too. Managers of tomorrow do not mind smudging with some hands-on work. The decoration has started this night with a few dorm artists making the frame for Ganesha rangoli (sand base picture to be covered with color powder). Rangoli is made for goddess Lakhsmi (the goddess of prosperity) to come to the house. In addition our dorm mates promise a lot of light and decorations all around the dorm (you see your obedient servant making hangers for oil lamps as contribution).Diwali is predominantly family celebration but those who stay on campus try to recreate it here. Tomorrow I will buy some sweets as someone might drop and I need to be prepared.

The great conversion

2006-10-20T21:39:00.000+05:00

India can be very unpredictable in itself. It is our second day in Mumbai and we head to the see the adjacent fish market and the Afghan church. I am still recovering from the accident which almost ended up as fight. Hangovered Indian was asking for Rs 1 for taking pictures in the vegetable market. We walk further and hit the dead end. All of the sudden somebody invites to visit an exhibition in tent nearby. By the sheer coincidence we learn about the great conversion from Hinduism to Buddhism. Exactly 50 years ago around 150 thousand untouchables (the lowest caste in Hindu) led by B. R. Ambedkar have turned to Buddhism in protest at discrimination by Hindus caste system. This act was done under the premise was Buddha was born as the untouchable. Today the movement counts around 15 million devotees all around India. If interested read more about the anniversary and the initiator.

Mumbai - Dhobi Ghats

2006-10-20T20:57:00.000+05:00

Our hotel room is not yet ready so we hit the road to the bridge next to Mahalaxmi railway station to see the triumph of feminism before the heat of the day takes over the city. I am kidding of course but many women would be really pleased to see the action in this open air laundry in one of the Mumbai’s attractions - dhoni ghats. Hundreds and hundreds of men are washing along long cement canal divided into small booths. Dhobi-wallahs - traditional laundrymen, standing in soapy grey water, inexhaustibly bash clothes against cement walls. I assumer after such a s wash your clothes not only are clean but considerably thinner as well.

Mumbai - taxis

2006-10-20T20:44:00.000+05:00

Auto rickshaws are not allowed to operate in the center of the city so the only suitable means of transportation remains taxi. Vast demands for comfort travel are satisfied by numerous Padminis shaped as the rally racers from the sixties and having the similar age. As many taxi drivers are not satisfied with black and yellow uniform they embellish their taxies in different frippery. After the brisk attempt of the driver to rip us off by offering a triple price we get to our hotel only paying twice the sum. Learning curve is here and my first question to the reception is how to find whether one overpays or not. Here is the deal for all those to plan to visit Mumbai shortly. You get into the taxi. You ask to turn the meter on. Once you reach the destination you ask driver for the fare explanation sheet (all of them carry one). When you find the sum corresponding to the meter readings and, voila, end up paying as an Indian.

Aloo Jeera (Potato and Cumin)

2006-10-13T19:02:00.000+05:00

Hi,

I am back with a quick note of the passion of mine which is cooking. India has so much good food that it would be a shame not to share a few recipes with you. Here comes the first one – perfect cold or hot as a side or main dish. This is a real student’s meal! Especially practical for Lithuania where the potato season is in a full swing.

Aloo Jeera (Potato and Cumin)

Ingredients:
200 gm: Potatoes
50 ml: Oil
10 gm: Cumin seeds
20 gm: Ginger
30 gm: Garlic
10 gm: Turmeric
20 gm: Red chilli powder
100 gm: Tomatoes
05 gm: Garam masala
20 gm: Coriander powder
10 gm: Coriander leaves (optional)
Salt to taste
Preparation:
Boil potatoes and dice them. Chop onions, garlic, ginger, coriander and the tomatoes.
2eat oil and sauté cumin seeds until they crackle. Add garlic and ginger and sauté until golden.
Stir in chopped ginger and add the potatoes. Sprinkle turmeric and chili powder and stir. Add tomatoes and simmer for about 5 minutes.
(recipe taken from www.surfindia.com)

If you are full of passion for cooking but short of spices please ask Kapil for the nearest Indian shop (for my Spanish friends in Madrid now) or, if in Vilnius, go to the little shop on Lvovo street right apposite the Holiday Inn.
Buen provecho/Skanaus!
Vygis

Wanna join the business?

2006-10-07T23:24:00.000+05:00

Many of you visiting Asia came across one of the most popular vehicle – three wheeler also known as auto rickshaw. Here in Ahmedabad we have around 40.000 of them. They serve a great deal when you need to travel from point A to point B and can be quickly found on the street. Little bargain and you are seated in a half open carriage threatened and fascinated by the Formula 1 turns the driver makes in the crowded streets of the city. In fact at the gate of the school 24x7 we have around 5-6 of them on guard waiting to serve students and faculty. Friendly driver Mustafa has told me the economics of the business. The machine is owned by him. Produced by a monopolist company Bajaj and sold at a price of Rs 122.000 (2100 Eur) it is quite costly pleasure by Indian standards. You add tuning such as roof and paint as extra. Payback? Well. It is 2 to 2,5 years. Daily catch - Rs 300 (5 Eur) on average. If you interested in technical specifications you can find them here. Wanna join the business?

Travel begins

2006-09-19T21:21:00.000+05:00

Route: Ahmedabad - Lothal. Distance – around 70 km one way. Time 5.30 am

It is a public secret that exchange students mainly come to India to travel. The urge to explore is so big that classes come in the second or even third place while here. This, certainly, does not make receiving school very happy thus they do not provide us with class schedules right until arrival. Otherwise people would choose subjects which fit their travel itineraries the most.
After hanging around campus for more when two weeks your obedient servant has decided its time to explore the surroundings as well. As per suggestion of Marco from Italy we decided to head to Lothal – ruins of what once was one of the most important Harrapan city of Indus valley civilizations. Those interested in archeology or ancient civilizations can read more about by following this link.
It is very early morning and 5 of us are waiting for the second car to arrive. The one already sent by the agency cannot take all of us. Finally the car is here and, after short negotiation about the price increase due to the bigger van, we start our journey.
Our new driver must have been awaken right 10 mins before the thus he stops every 10 km asking for proper directions to the site. We in the meantime enjoy pleasant coolness of the morning and observe early traffic on the road.
After five to six consultations how to get where and a few wrong turns we finally turn into the side road to leading to the place.
It is a real countryside with landscape framed by flooded rice fields and women carrying feed grass on their heads. Someone in the horizon herds holly cows….
At 8 pm we are on the site just to realize that it will open in 1 hour time. Meanwhile few local countrymen bring water melon, cut it into pieces and try to strike a conversation with a few early intruders. We eat melon, exchange smiles and take pictures. One hour passes quickly.
At 9 am site opens ans we go to see the remains of this formerly magnificent city. A local guide appears form nowhere and gives us thorough explanations in broken English. He is very cautious that no one takes pictures and, therefore, blows his little whistle every time we spot our cameras onto an interesting piece. However he smiles and we realize it is rather a formal gesture than his intention to forbid us doing that.
The site is explored in full in 15 mins and we settle by the car to wait until the museum opens at 10 am. In the meantime first village inhabitants are replaced by 3 young girls, who, after a donation of 3 candies, Rs 20 and half a pack of biscuits, nicely pose in front of our cameras.Brief look around museum. Farewell picture with all the actors of this early morning life play and we head back to Ahmedabad. The sun is high, the weather is hot, the traffic is intensive and the air is dusty and noisy. Stay tuned!

Give us pasta and more pasta!

2006-09-18T12:56:00.000+05:00

Indian food is great. It tastes good it smells good and it looks good. And it is cheap. For 1.5 EUR per day the canteen serves four hearty meals involving varying degrees of spiciness. It is has been about 20 years (back in school when I stayed all afternoons waiting for my parents to pick me up) that I got meal at 4 pm which here is called “High tea”. For many of you a simple mention of the Indian food invokes mouthwatering memories of your recent visit to an Indian restaurant (which many of us do not do too often). However being stuffed with dals, koftas, rice and raitas for the last two weeks and consuming annual intake of spices per day our stomachs and tongues have requested a change. Due to the big Italian minority on campus and the reputation of the Italian kitchen pasta was chosen as the European ambassador to make inroads into the Indian kitchen. As a result an Italian guy taught 15 or so cooks at our mess how to make it. Result – we all got slightly overcooked and sweetish dish with a bit of a Chinese taste. But it was great! You never know how unpretentious you can become. Stay tuned!

Warm welcome (and we mean it)

2006-09-16T22:31:00.000+05:00

Having two mid life crises in rapid succession is a sure-fire way have your sanity questioned. Leaving work to do an MBA just when most of our pensioner-peers are hustling their zimmer frames along the peers of Florida was not enough. Vygantas and Paul needed more of a challenge, so packed their bifocals and slippers to join India’s brightest and best at IIM, Ahmedabad.Over the course of three months we will try to update you about life, people, travel, food, culture…whatever might come to our minds worth sharing with you. Stay tuned!